PROCESSING INSTRUCTIONS FOR WALL AND CEILING CLADDING
If used correctly, GISATEX® wall and ceiling cladding materials can significantly reduce your interior design and manufacturing costs. Wooden cladding is certainly very nice to look at if it is carried out professionally, but at the latest when processing the wood, the first difficulties arise: How difficult is it to bring the wood grain into the right course? Adjustment work, recesses, folds and the like require a considerable amount of specialist knowledge and skill for perfect processing. Before accepting a poorly processed timber construction, one should give preference to the lighter textile cladding processing. No specialist knowledge is required here, just a little personal skill.
The previously roughly cut length is now, as with wallpapering, placed on the adhesive surface and pulled on without creasing while pressing vigorously. Bubbles can be removed by lifting and pressing again (as long as the adhesive pulls threads). The corners and edges are then neatly traced with a blunt tool and then precisely trimmed with a carpet knife.
In the case of that are interrupted by panes (e.g. rubber surrounds), the measurement of window is cut out with scissors so that a remainder of the material remains, which can then be pressed under the rubber lip with a screwdriver or similar.
Joints and seams:
If it has to be attached to a side wall, this is easily possible. As with carpet, the parts to be attached are overlapped and cut with a carpet knife. The edges can then be precisely butted. If you haven’t got the seam exactly you take a 2 cm stripe of material and stick it to the seam with our adhesive (e.g. type 1805). Wooden edge strips such as those available in hardware stores can be used as strips. Gluing over corners and edges is always easy and precise using profile strips. The strips are coated with glue, the material is cut into strips to match the profile and coated. Fixing is done again with adhesive type 1805, or mechanically with a stapler.
The finished inner parts (or load-bearing elements) are coated over the entire surface with the special adhesive type 1805 (adhesive is preferably applied with a small 10 cm long lambskin roll) and then the roughly cut material is covered (see wallpapering). The layer thickness of the adhesive should be designed in such a way that the entire surface is white, that is, it is covered with adhesive over a large area. The gluing time changes depending on the temperature and humidity. Basically: at high temperatures and low air humidity, fast bonding, at low, i.e. cold temperatures and high air humidity, slower activation of the adhesive.
Bonding of ceilings:
Difficulties can sometimes arise when working on ceilings or overhead. The following method helps here: The ceiling parts are coated with adhesive (see above). The previously roughly cut length is now pressed into the wet adhesive, smoothed out and then removed again. We have now brought about an even distribution of the adhesive on the top and back of the material (~ contact bonding). If the adhesive begins to pull threads on the ceiling (finger test), you can quickly disguise. If the surface is not even, eg. due to cables lying on the ceiling or wall, laminate parts or simply unevenness, you can obtain a variety of materials in a laminated (padded) version. We laminate approx. 5mm special foam with deposited charmeuse onto the material at the factory. The material is processed as described above, but unevenness such as screws, cables or old adhesive residues are now completely covered.
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