PROCESSING INSTRUCTIONS FOR WALL AND CEILING CLADDING
If used correctly, GISATEX® wall and ceiling cladding materials can significantly reduce your interior design and manufacturing costs. Wooden cladding is aesthetically pleasing if applied professionally. However, when processing the wood, first difficulties arise: How difficult is it to bring the wood grain into the right course? Adjustment work, recesses, folds and the like require a considerable amount of specialist knowledge and skill for perfect processing. Before accepting a poorly processed timber construction, one should give preference to the lighter textile cladding processing. No specialist knowledge is required here, just a little personal skill.
The installation of the wall and ceiling cladding is similar to the application of wallpaper. First you have to roughly measure and cut the cladding to the correct length. Position the length on top of the adhesive surface, starting at the ceiling, apply it downwards while pressing it firmly on the wall. Bubbles and wrinkels can be removed by lifting the cladding until the bubbles and then pressing it on the wall again (as long as the adhesive pulls threads). The corners and edges are then neatly traced with a blunt tool and then precisely trimmed with a carpet knife.
To apply the cladding around e.g. windows or any other interruptions, the measurement of window is cut out with scissors so that a remainder of the material remains, which can then be pressed under the rubber lip with a screwdriver or a similar tool.
Joints and seams:
If the cladding has to be attached to a side wall, this is easily done. As with carpet, the parts to be attached are overlapped and cut with a carpet knife. The edges can then precisely be trimmed. If the seam does not fit accurately, you take a 2 cm stripe of material and appky it to the seam with our adhesive (e.g. type 1805). Wooden edge strips, such as those available in hardware stores, can be used as strips. Glueing along corners and edges is easy and precisely done using profile strips. The strips are coated with glue and the material is cut into strips to match the wall. Fixing is done again with adhesive type 1805, or mechanically with a stapler.
The finished inner parts (or load-bearing elements) are coated over their entire surface with the special adhesive type 1805 (adhesive is preferably applied with a small 10 cm long lambskin roll) and then the roughly cut material is covered (see wallpapering). The layer thickness of the adhesive should be designed in such a way that the entire surface is white, that is, it is covered with adhesive over a large area. The gluing time changes depending on the temperature and humidity. Basically: at high temperatures and low air humidity, fast bonding, at low, i.e. cold temperatures and high air humidity, slower activation of the adhesive.
Bonding of ceilings:
Difficulties can sometimes arise when working on ceilings or overhead. The following method helps here: The ceiling parts are coated with adhesive (see above). The previously roughly cut lengths are pressed onto the wet adhesive surface, smoothed out and then removed again. We have now brought about an even distribution of the adhesive on the top and back of the material (~ contact bonding). If the adhesive begins to pull threads on the ceiling (finger test), you can quickly continue. If the surface is not even, eg. due to cables lying on the ceiling or wall, laminate parts or simply unevenness. You can obtain a variety of materials in a laminated (padded) version. We laminate approx. 5 mm special foam with deposited charmeuse onto the material at the factory. The material is processed as described above, but unevenness such as screws, cables or old adhesive residues are now completely covered.
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